Suzuki DR-Z4S vs. DR-Z400 
Handlebar Guide: Sizing, Specs, and Handguard Fitment

After nearly a quarter-century, Suzuki completely overhauled its legendary dual-sport platform. While the new Suzuki DR-Z4S brought major upgrades like fuel injection and a new twin-spar frame, one of the most practical changes for everyday riders is up at the controls: the handlebars.

If you are transitioning from an old DR-Z400 or trying to source aftermarket parts for a new DR-Z4S, here is exactly what changed, why it matters, and how it impacts your handguard and accessory purchases.

The Factory Spec Matchup

For decades, the standard DR-Z400S rolled off the line with old-school, 7/8-inch straight steel handlebars. They were notoriously easy to bend in a simple tip-over and transmitted a lot of engine buzz.

The DR-Z4S fixes this by bringing the cockpit up to modern enduro standards, utilizing 1 1/8-inch tapered aluminum "fatbars."

Note on Grip Diameter: Even though the center clamp area on the DR-Z4S is much thicker, the bars taper down to a standard 7/8-inch at the controls. Your throttle tube, switchgear, and favorite aftermarket grips fit perfectly without modification.

Why the Move to Tapered Aluminum Matters

• Durability: Aluminum handles impacts much better than mild steel. The thicker, tapered aluminum construction on the DR-Z4S is significantly stiffer and more resilient to trail tumbles.

• Better Ergonomics: The factory DR-Z4S bars sit roughly 1.10 inches (28 mm) higher than the older DR-Z400 position. For the average rider, this significantly improves comfort when standing up on the footpegs, minimizing the immediate need for aftermarket bar risers.

The Handguard Trap: Threaded Bar Ends

The most critical technical detail on the factory DR-Z4S handlebars is at the very tips. To combat single-cylinder engine buzz, Suzuki equipped the bike with heavy, external bar-end weights that thread directly into factory inserts welded inside the handlebar core.

This completely changes how you buy and install wrap-around handguards (like Barkbusters or Cycra). You have two distinct paths depending on whether you keep the stock bars or swap them out:

Path A: Keeping the Stock DR-Z4S Handlebars

Traditional universal handguards use an expanding metal collet that anchors inside a completely hollow bar end. These will not work on the stock DR-Z4S bars out of the box because the internal threads block them.

• The Fix: You need to source a model-specific handguard kit like the BHG-148-00-NP from Barkbusters. These kits include specialized bolts that utilize the factory's pre-threaded handlebar ends perfectly, securing the guard while preserving proper handguard spacing.
  
  

Path B: Upgrading to Aftermarket Handlebars (Renthal, ProTaper, etc.)

If you choose to replace the stock bars with an aftermarket 1 1/8-inch oversized option—like a Renthal Fatbar or Cheetah Factory Enduro—you lose those factory threaded inserts and will need to eliminate the bar end weights. Aftermarket off-road bars are completely hollow.

• The Fix: Do not buy the model-specific handguard kit. Instead, you will want to use a Universal Taper Bar Kit from Barkbusters or Cycra. These universal kits include the standard internal expanding anchors that seat directly into raw, hollow aluminum tubing, along with the 1 1/8-inch clamps needed for the center of the bar.

Summary

Suzuki’s move to a 1 1/8-inch tapered aluminum handlebar is a massive win that saves riders from a "day-one" upgrade expense. However, the addition of factory threaded bar-end weights means you need to be intentional with your cockpit mods. If you're keeping the stock bars, grab a model-specific handguard kit; if you're swapping the bars entirely, stick to the universal 1 1/8-inch taper standards.